Powered By Blogger

Sunday 22 April 2012

Endurance is Annoying

After my redpoint failures in Skaha on Crestfallen, I figured that though I easily possess enough power to do the moves with relative ease, I lack any kind of endurance to link them together. My few burns on it last October were much better than my send burns this past Friday. My finger strength and overall power easily surpasses last years, but I lack the advantage of having climbed roughly a 100 pitches last summer and fall, before working it.
I decided to tweak my training a little bit, and refocus on my goal of climbing an abundance of medium to hard (for me) pitches, until my birthday challenge this July.
I try to train my fingers and pull muscles when I'm at the station and today was no exception. I adjusted my hangboard routine to reflect my lack of endurance. With this interval timer on my iPhone, I'm able to create timers while listening to music, which I believe distracts me from the fact that I'm hanging from pieces of wood in a government building.
For endurance I figured (after warming up) that I would: hang 20 sec/ rest 40 sec. for a total of 25 min. I feel quite gassed for the last 5 reps. I'm using a 3/4" rounded edge, super comfortable and skin friendly.
After resting for 20 minutes, I went straight into my pullup routine. Again using the interval timer, I setup a 20 minute timer to sound every minute, at the beginning of every minute I do 7 pullups. Near the end of the 20 minutes I'm barely able to crank out the 7th pullup, but still finished the workout with the 140 in 20 min.

I understand that pullups are not the greatest training tool for climbing, I wholeheartedly believe that climbing is by far the best training for climbing. But when I'm stuck in a building 24/7, I try and get my swell on any way I can. I don't see how being able to do a crap ton of pullups could be detrimental to my climbing.
Keep pulling, people!
-PatWC

"My Science this is boring!"
OPEN HAND

No comments:

Post a Comment